By … and a few seascapes
Low lying, mainly flat, 90% peat bog- known for its smoky single malt whiskies- the Scottish Hebridean island of Islay still manages its share of beauty, magically floating on a golden sea in the western light.
We were there for a three day trip staying in a B and B in Bruichladdich, the eponymous distillery only a short walk away. With rich fabrics, rugs, tartan blankets, taxidermy and traditional art and ceramics, it was everything one could hope for from a Hebridean home, and with stunning views across Loch Indaal to Bowmore and beyond to the mountains of Jura.
Minimalists would recoil at the dining area with its crockery-laden Welsh dresser and intricate ornamentation, but we luxuriated in it, as our hostess cooked breakfast to order (smoked haddock or river trout and poached eggs) and we sampled a varied range of fresh and stewed fruits, juices, yogurts, porridge, jams, bagels, breads and croissants.
Thus set up for the day and, after a summary of the goings-on on the island, the adventures could begin.
A day trip by ferry to Jura provided the most dramatic and adventurous trip. We traversed the length of this wild and rugged island to visit Lussa Gin, at times despairing of the road and desperately hoping not to meet any oncoming traffic on a precipitous edge or right-angle bend.
Returning to Jura’s only village, Craigmore, boats were bobbing on the sparkling water of the bay and a seaplane landed, whilst locals and tourists enjoyed a dram in the sunshine.
Islay doesn’t have the rugged mountain terrain of neighbouring Jura, but it does have sandy beaches, secluded bays, pretty villages, and crafts. Port Charlotte is one such village, containing a shop, museum, pub, lighthouse and a young lad practising his bagpipes on the pier.
On the last day the weather turned (of course it did) and our pursuits were more indoor. Bridgend has multiple artisanal craft workshops and outlets: jams, art, photography, quilting, and (of course) whisky (and gin)! Also nearby is the quaint Islay Woollen Mill where visitors can purchase a range of local knitwear and tweeds whilst marvelling at the old looms or admiring the adjacent waterfall.
Travel to Islay by ferry (via a long drive from Glasgow) or fly Scotland’s airline, Loganair direct. We chose the latter, enjoying views over the sea to the islands whilst eating the complimentary Tunnock’s Caramel Wafers.
Yes, like thousands of other visitors, we went for the whisky, but found plenty more besides and, not least, the wonderful island hospitality. Aye, we’ll drink to that!
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