Something New (castle)

If you’re looking for a coastal urban experience- but without the crowds- then Newcastle on New South Wales’ Central Coast may be worth a visit.

The city’s heavy industry is still very much in evidence but juxtaposed with a burgeoning of cafe culture, craft breweries, street art, galleries, and artisanal outlets.

Hunter, King and Darby Streets form the major entertainment precinct with eateries and bars to suit all tastes.

We liked Darby Street so much we went three times in one weekend, brunching at 3 Monkeys and the Autumn Rooms (book to avoid the line-up). Cooks Hill felt like Surry Hills, especially when served a “deconstructed” iced latte with our chili eggs and pomegranate amidst a youthful and arty not-so-youthful crowd.

We spent the afternoons shopping in Darby Street’s clothing and artisan boutiques, browsing vinyl records, books, posters and ceramics until (early) cocktail hour at 5 Sawyers (they seem to like numbers in Newcastle). Following a local’s tip off, and for a touch of swank, we snuck into the QT Hotel’s rooftop bar with its panoramic views of the Hunter River, harbour and beaches- and expensive drinks and clientele.

Then there’s the beaches. The city beach is easily accessible by light rail which, on a sunny day, is packed with sun seekers, swimmers and surfers- already in their beachwear. With the blue, blue ocean’s white caps breaking onto the horseshoe of sand, the rock pool and old school lifesaving tower, it has that classic Aussie beach feel of – you know where- (but with fewer crowds and less for the surf lifesavers to do).

The Queens Wharf Hotel with its seemingly endless live music and enthusiastic singing and dancing crowd offered a further watery experience- literally for the lads diving off the wharf. For us, a more sedate wait for the ferry to commence our return trip to the airport. Yes! A ferry to the airport- for at least part of the journey.

With its airport receiving flights from all Australian capital cities and a train link to Sydney, Newcastle is easily reached. More complex is transit between airport and city- a $70 taxi/rideshare or the local bus. The number 130 links up with the light rail in the city, but for more of an adventure take the 136.

Our journey was nothing like the typical airport transit- as we sailed through a thunder storm and sudden downpour on the boat. Then the bus with its motley mix of unlikely fellow travellers: a smart business woman, young backpackers, kids in bathers and towels, a boy with fishing tackle and a tub of today’s catch, and other locals not the least interested in air travel. For a while we wondered where we were going, as the No. 136 meandered through resorts and farmlands, past decrepit homesteads and abandoned, rusting vehicles- before eventually turning back- to a collective sigh of relief from the air travellers- onto the highway to the airport.

It was a fitting end to a fun weekend discovering the new in Newcastle, New South Wales.